Ryoshinji zen temple

I woke up and I looked through the window of the wooden cabin in Yamanakako. Still cloudy but at least not raining, or stormy as the previous day, when I rode 40 km climbing towards the Fuji Mountain.
My hope was to be able to see the summit of Fuji Mountain, impossible to see the day before due to the dense clouds embracing the mountain.

After boiling some water with my stove for my noodles and coffee, I finished my packing, put the panniers on the racks and with some hope still alive I rode 500m towards the lake. Once there, I look right, look left… and bam! There she was! The perfect cone of the 3400 m hight Fuji Mountain was finally visible from the lake Yamanakako.

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This landscape gave me a good boost for starting cycling around the mountain and towards Shizuoka. My cycling goal was to reach 90 km before 17h to compensate for the day before. Arround 18h was  the sunset so 1 hour margin is more than enough to find somewhere to settle for the night.

On the way I cycled beatifull countryside roads, crossing bamboo and fir forests.

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By 16:40 I reach the 90 km. I was arriving to a little town called Ojima. I stop and I started my personal protocol for setting down for the night: I took out my cellphone to check with Google maps the location of some park, Shire or temple where I could mount the tent and a convenient store (7/11) to secure toilet and food.

When going to the convenient store, I saw a bakery and I had to stop. Japanese little cakes and sweets are tremendous! So I went in and I started pointing what my eyes where already eating. Finally I asked the smiley woman about the temple I was looking for, I thought that was pretty close. The smiley woman told me that was just on the other side of the street, and that that day were some celebrations with a lot of people because of the Buddha’s birthday. Just before leaving with my sweet shopping, the smily woman gave me a little cake with cream and strawberry.

I crossed the street and I entered the temple gate. Suddenly I heard a big dong being hammered. It was five o’clock. I look up to the dong tower and I see a nine year old boy going down the stairs after finishing his job. Downsters he met a man dressed as a monk, he was Gaku, his father.

Gaku approached to me with a smile in his face. We started talking (trying to understand each other in english) about the celebrations of the day. He pointed towards the temple and invited me in.

We went to the Buddha’s room. Very spacious room with wooden pilars and bamboo tatami. He showed me the Buddha with all the offerings such as flowers or fruit and other symbolic representations. Then, he invited me to lid an incense stick and dig it into a jar with sand. After that, we bowed the Buddha and we kept on talking. Gaku asked me if I had somewhere to sleep. I said that not yet and he invited me to stay during the night. I suddenly realized that the day of Buddha’s  birthday was my lucky day.

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We moved to another room, where the celebrations of the day had been. It was a pretty big space, full of bamboo carpets. Gaku told me with the smile in his face that before resting I had to help him to clean the floor. So he gave me a vacumm cleaner and I did my job. After ridding 92 km and having the bed secured this was a very easy job.

Suddenly woman and the boy I saw before came. She was Sakura (that means cherry blossom in japanese), Gaku’s wife. And he was Haruki, their son. We presented each other and Sakura invited me to take a shower, actually she insisted on me having a bath. I could not deny the offer, so she went to prepare the bath. She told me that in 10 minuttes would be ready. I bowed and thank her for that and Gaku brought me in the meantime to another room. It was the room of the ancesters.  The light was low, the wodden sealings carved with many details and figures. There was a big flower in the center of the room, with an intense addictive smell. On the wall there was a big furniture with wodden sticks withs inscriptions. Every stick was for the memory of one ancestor as I understood. On the other wall there was arround 20 portraits of teenagers who died during the second wold war. Next to the porttraits there was an original japanese map from those times. Meanwhile Gaku was explaining me that, Sakura came. The bath was ready.

After the bath, we ate dinner. Sushi and tempura made of many different plants picked from the garden. By then, Gaku’s mother joined us. Then we took a picture.

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When we where eating, Gaku invited me to join the Japanese caligraphy group that he holds every second week. So did I. At seven I met the other companions and I joined the group. It was at the Buddha’s room. There were preapared 4 low tables. One was for me. We sat in the japanese style, on our heels. And Gaku showed me what I had to do. It was a short version. Some verses of Kanon goddess (the same as the cameras). I had to write in the on the thin japanese paper what was written behind. Before starting the writing, Gaku started a little ceremony, singing and playing a small bell.

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This was the result of my work after some time.

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This is what Gaku did:

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The we took some tea.

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After that, we came back to the room where we took dinner and Haruki showed me some of his favorite movies, Totoro.

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Gaku likes Manga books!

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Time to sleep. The day after  we had to wake up at 6. Breakfast at 6:30.

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I woke up with the sound of the dong that Gaku was playing. It was six o’clock. We took breakfast and Gaku and Haruki showed me the garden and the green tea plantation.

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Then we took some group pictures.

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After, I went back to pack my bags and get ready. In the meantime several people came to the temple. They where all informed about my trip.  When I got ready I went out the temple and several people approached me meanwhile I was setting up the panniers on the bicycle.
Finally time to go. I said goodbye and thank for such an incredible time together. When I left all the people waved at me and Haruki took his bike to make together with me the first meters of my new cycle day.

Tokyo

7:00 AM, still raining. I decide to snooze so that hopefully I don’t have to unmount the tent under the water. 8 AM, after a long snooze, still rainning… Finally at 10:30 AM I am ready to go. Late, very late, having ahead 88 km to the capital city of Tokyo!

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Finally the sun comes up. Very welcome when following beatifull pathways by the riverside.

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Getting there!

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One day visit in a city of nearly 9 milions can be quite challenging. This is what I had time to visit.

BUDDHIST TEMPLE TSUNKIJI HONG WANJI

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TSUNKIJI MARKET

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Excellent Toro. 1000 yen for this portion!

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SHIBAYA CROSSING

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Taking a coffee I met the YouTube Kinda Boys,  from Osaka. With more than 40000 followers.

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YOYOGUI PARK

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TAKESHI TA STREET

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TOKYO AT NIGHT

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Thank you Akira for hosting me so well and showing me the Sunto!

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Good bye Tokyo, I’ll be back! Now Fuji Mountain is waiting!

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Scania Södertälje, Honda Tochigi

Värd i Tochigi av en Honda anställd. Hans namn är Cap och kommer från Thailand. Vi hade en sak gemensamt förutom av passionen för långfärdscykling båda har arbetat i ett stort varumärke inom fordonssektorn. Cirka 40.000 människor arbetar i Tochigi Honda Factory. Cab bidrar genom att testa förbrukningen Bränsle i den tekniska centrum. Tack Cab for värd mig och för at cykla 30km tillsammans!

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Hospitalitat japonesa

–In english below–

Havía quedat amb la Ayaka les 18h a Sukagawa. Eren les 16h i encara em faltaven 40km per arribar – hi.
El dia havia començat amb 20 km de pujada sostinguda per les carreterres muntanyoses a prop de Fukushima. Degut al fet que diverses carreteres de muntanya ecara són tallades degut at gran terratrèmol de fa uns quants anys, la ruta alternativa va ser aproximadament 15 quilòmetres de pujada més llarga. Aquest fet em va fer perdre un temps preciós.

Finalment a les 18h es va fer fosc, i vaig acceptar la meva derrota. Vaig parar en un petit supermercat de poble i vaig preguntar si em podien oferir un lloc per dormir, que portava tenda. Desprès de fer mímica, fer servir Google imatges, Google translator i fer algún dibuix, vaig creure que m’havien entès, i que si, que em deixarien acampar en algún lloc, segurament en alguna propietat seva. Tot seguit, la dona va agafar el seu bolso i em va fer un gest de seguir-la cap afora. Va engegar el cotxe i la vaig començar a seguir amb la bicicleta. Vem fer uns 4km fins que vem arribar a una gran estació de carretera. Allà, mentre recuperava l’alè em va fer un senyal d’espera. Jo no entenia res, on era el terreny? Al cap de cinc minuts torna la dona amb un parell d’entrepans i un tè calent i m’ho regala. I senyalant – me al terra del restaurant 24h del “Medis japonès”, entenc que la dona ha convençut a l’encarregada de l’establiment perquè em pugui quedar a dormir en un racó. Estava astorat i satisfet. Almenys no hauria de plantar la tenda i podria dormir a l’interior. Li vaig donar les gràcies a la dona i s’en va anar.

Mentre em menjava un entrepà en un banc de fora el restaurant, vaig divisar la grandiositat del pàrquing. Era immens, i el moviment era constant. De cop i volta, em vaig fixar en un petit camió tipus pick-up. El seu conductor, semblava que estigués a punt de marxar. De cop i volta, vaig tenir una idea, i vaig traduir al japonès: va cap a Sukagawa? Vaig apropar – me al camió i just quan es disponía a posar – se el cinturó per anar – se’n, li vaig ensenyar el móvil tot senyalant a la bicicleta. Per sorpresa meva, l’home no va dir que no, i desprès d’algunes gesticulacions més per part meva, l’home va acceptar. Vem pujar la bicleta i les bosses al darrera i vem començar el viatge.

Al cap de 45 minuts ja arribava a Sukagawa. Eren les 20:30h. L’Ayaka em va rebre amb els braços oberts tot i que a les 22h se n’havia d’anar a treballar fins les 7h. Em va donar la benvinguda a casa seva i dels seus pares. Em van ensenyar el tatami on dormiria i em van oferir sopar. Boles d’arròs, sopa, amanida, tè i maduixes. Estava rebentat i m’ho vaig endrapar tot ben ràpid. La família em conemplava mentre menjava com si vingues d’un altre altre planeta. Em va traduir L’Ayaka que els pares no havien sortit mai del Japó, i que es com si viatgessin quan miraven la televisió o quan em contemplaven a mi.

L’endemà va començar amb un esmorzar típic japonés: arròs, salmó a la planxa i sopa, entre altres petits plats d’acompanyament.

Després d’ aquest dia vaig poder tornar a comprobar com és de gran i sincera l’hospitalitat japonesa.

–ENGLISH–
I had to meet up with Ayaka at 18h at Sukagawa. She was a friend of my friend Nammy from Sendai. She could provide me a place to stay overnight at her parents place.

It was 16h and I still had 40km to get there. The day had begun with a 20 km sustained climb on a mountain road near Fukushima. Because many mountain roads are still cut due to big earthquake a few years ago, the alternative route was about 15 km uphill longer. This made me lose precious time.

Finally, at 18pm it got dark and I accepted my defeat. I stopped in a small village shop and asked if they could provide me a place to sleep, that I had a tent. After doing some mimics, using Google Images, Google translator and do some drawings, I thought we understood each other, and that they would let me camp somewhere, probably in of their properties.

Then the woman grabbed her purse and she indicated to follow her. She started her car and I started to follow her with the bicycle. We made about 4km until we arrived at a road station. There, meanwhile recovering my breath she made awaiting signal. I did not understand. where it was the land I was supposed to camp? After five minutes the woman returned with a couple of sandwiches and hot tea that she gave me.

Then I understood that the woman had convinced the person in charge of the road station restaurant so I could sleep between the tables overnight. At least it was indoors. I was astonished and pleased. At least I should not set the tent and I could sleep inside. I thanked the woman and she went away.

While I was eating a sandwich on a bench outside the restaurant, I sighted the grandeur of the parking lot. It was huge, and the movement was constant. Suddenly, I noticed a small pick-up truck type. It seemed that the driver was getting ready to leave. Suddenly, I had an idea, and I translated into Japanese: towards Sukagawa?

I approached the truck. The truck driver had switched on the truck and was strapping the seat belt. Then I came out from the darkness showing my bright screen with the translated sentence. To my surprise, the man did not say no, and after some more gestures on my part, the man accepted to bring me to Sukagawa!!.We put the bicycle and bags on the trunk and we started the trip.

After 45 minutes we reached Sukagawa. It was 20:30h. The Ayaka received me with open arms even though at 22h he had to go to work until 7am.Then I was introduced to her parents. Ayaka showed me the tatami where I could sleep and offered me dinner. Rice balls, soup, salad, tea and strawberries. The family contemplated me eating as if I would come from another planet. Ayaka told me that her parents had never left Japan. For them, to watch TV or look at me was somehow a way of travelling.

The day began with a typical Japanese breakfast: rice, soup and grilled salmon, among other small side dishes.

After that day I could verify again how great and sincere Japanese hospitality is.

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Sendai, arigato gozaimazu

After 24 hours traveling, being welcome by Nammy and Shinji is the best it could happen. First contact to Sendai trough a good Yzakaya: eating delicious small dishes and drinking a variety of Sake.

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Taiko was initially used for comunication purposes. Nowadays is a fun way to release stress after work.

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Digital Taiko is of course popular in Japan. Competing for the master of Taiko prize.

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Sendai swing in action! What a wonderful night full of swing-outs, shuffles and turns! Thank you for the jam!

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Matashima is a town north Sendai. This area was stongly hit by the Tsunami. Now still building protection walls to be ready just in case. Beatifull views from the top!

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Yukari at Matashima.

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First Onsen experience. That was great!

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Eating sushi after the Onsen.

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Sendai night fever.

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Shinji, Nammy and the gellyfish.

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Nammy and her collection of Sake.

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Khan swinging!

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Days in Sendai are over by now. I hope to come back sometime in the future. Thank you Nammy San and Shinji San for taking care of me so well!

On my way to Fukushima!

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